Over the past 12 years we’ve been hearing about how the Jewish district of Fairfax Ave. (between Melrose Ave. and Beverly Blvd.) was fading fast because its shop owners couldn’t keep up with the landlords’ rent raises, which were effected by news of the area’s newfound popularity as a trendy location.
I moved into the city long after most Jewish businesses vanished, but perhaps a dozen still stood, if not more. Some still hang on to. Others saved on rent by combining two shops into one space (Chabad Bookstore and Atara’s gifts). But many—like the only Jewish record store in the state if not the country—shuttered. What’s left are a restaurant (Simon’s), a grocery store/meat market (Western Kosher), possibly the fish market is still there, a 24-hour non-kosher but still “Jewish” deli (Canter’s), Schwartz Bakery and Cafe (who’s also an owner/landlord), an Israeli Market (Sami’s), a charitable non-profit organization and thrift store (NCJW), and perhaps a couple others. Solomon’s gifts moved to Pico in a much smaller space; others may have folded.
I walked the strip for the first time in awhile yesterday. I couldn’t help but be surprised as to what moved in in their stead. I was already familiar with Golden _______, a hip burger eatery, Animal, a beyond-cool meat-heavy restaurant featuring two star-chefs, and a bar. What I noticed that’s even newer is a hip, authentic English Pub manifestation of today’s gastropub trend; a veritable saloon!, a DJ-based turntable and record shop manned by trendy boy-men; a couple minimalistic men’s fashion shops, and a couple galleries.
What impressed me however, was the subject matter of most of these joints: they all skewed masculine. Testosterone-heavy commerce. A rarity in L.A. Most shopping destinations brim with women’s furnishings. Whereas stats would show women account for most the world’s shopping, Fairfax’s new shopping district is decidedly guy-friendly. Cool dudes in flannels, hats, 4 day stubble, thick-framed glasses and skinny-jeans flit around from storefront to storefront.
Huge change from the shtetl Jews of the past that probably scooted from store to store to buy their Shabbos and holiday provisions. But the good news is, if the old Yids can still hang on, there’s an interesting mix going on. Possibly a micro-mini version of Brooklyn’s Williamsburg—but without the angry sectarian divide. And I hope it thrives.